A Hidden Treasure Beyond the Chaos
Discovering the Soul of Southern Italy
Naples, or as the locals say, Napoli, is a city that often sparks strong reactions. Some travelers bypass it completely, making a beeline for the Amalfi Coast, while others fall in love with its energy, history, and culinary delights. It’s a place where patience and a good appetite will serve you well. Yes, it’s gritty, chaotic, and sometimes overwhelming, but if you embrace the city’s unique rhythm, you’ll find a warmth and authenticity that’s hard to match.
The Myth and Reality of Naples
You may have heard the famous phrase: “See Naples and die” (“Vedi Napoli e poi muori”). This phrase, with origins possibly dating back to Virgil, was meant to express that once you’ve seen Naples, you’ve seen it all. Goethe wrote about it in his Italian Journey (1787), and Mark Twain, ever the skeptic, quipped in The Innocents Abroad (1869):
“‘SEE Naples and die?’ Well, I do not know that one would necessarily die after merely seeing it, but to attempt to live there might turn out a little differently.”
While Naples today still carries a bit of Twain’s chaotic charm, it’s also a city rich in history, culture, and some of the best food you’ll ever eat.
Where to Stay: A Seaside Oasis
For first-time visitors, the area around Castel dell’Ovo is an ideal place to stay. This charming, pedestrian-friendly area has been recently closed to car traffic, making it perfect for a relaxing evening stroll—or as the Italians call it, a passeggiata. With the golden-hued castle rising from the sea, you’re standing at the site of the original Greek settlement of Naples.
A Legend to Remember
Why is it called Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle)? Legend has it that the poet Virgil placed an enchanted egg inside its walls, and as long as the egg remains intact, Naples will stand. Whether you believe the myth or not, the castle and its surrounding district make for a picturesque and historically rich stay.
Exploring Underground Naples: A Journey Through Time
One of the most fascinating (and often overlooked) experiences in Naples is Napoli Sotterranea—Underground Naples. This network of ancient tunnels, up to 40 meters below ground, has served many purposes over the centuries:
- Built by the Greeks and expanded by the Romans as aqueducts and cisterns.
- Used as bomb shelters during World War II, where thousands of Neapolitans lived for months.
- Rumored secret passages stretching all the way to Pompeii.
It’s an eerie, thrilling experience that brings Naples’ layered history to life. A must-visit, especially for families and history lovers!
Why You Shouldn’t Skip Naples
It’s true—Naples can be overwhelming at first glance. The traffic, graffiti, and frenetic energy can be daunting. But scratch beneath the surface, and you’ll find:
- A vibrant food scene: Try thick-crusted Neapolitan pizza topped with buffalo mozzarella.
- Breathtaking views: The Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius looming in the background is simply unforgettable.
- A deep cultural heart: From ancient ruins to Baroque churches, Naples is a treasure trove of art and history.
Naples isn’t just a stopover—it’s a destination in its own right. And for those who are willing to embrace its beautiful chaos, it’s a city that will stay with you forever.
More to Come!
In future posts, I’ll be sharing even more hidden gems in Naples and its surrounding areas. From street food to secret spots, there’s always something more to discover in this fascinating city.
And to end on a fitting note—a tribute to Naples’ legendary singer, Pino Daniele, whose music captures the heart and soul of this incredible city. If you want to truly feel Naples, just listen.
Have you visited Naples? Share your favorite memories in the comments!